Cricket Bat Care Guide
A good willow bat can last several seasons, but only if it is looked after. Most bat damage, from face cracks and split toes to swollen, soft wood, is caused by small habits: too much oil, a damp kit bag, a hot car, or a cheap ball in the nets. This guide covers everyday cricket bat care, from the first oiling to storing the bat in the off-season, so your bat stays in shape and keeps playing well.
New bat?
Preparing a brand-new bat is a separate job. Follow our step-by-step guide on how to knock in a cricket bat first, then use this guide to keep it in good condition.

English willow vs Kashmir willow care
The basics are the same for both woods, but there are differences. English willow is softer and more fibrous, so it rewards careful preparation and gentle treatment, and it is the wood most likely to crack if it is neglected. Kashmir willow is harder and denser. It needs less knocking in, but it still benefits from light oiling on any bare wood and from being kept dry. Bats sold for tennis ball or tape ball cricket are made for softer balls and should not be used against hard leather balls. If you are not sure which wood you have, our English willow vs Kashmir willow guide explains how to tell them apart.
Oiling your bat: how much and how often
Oil keeps the surface fibres of the willow supple so they flex instead of cracking. The standard choice is raw linseed oil. Do not use boiled linseed oil or other wood oils unless your bat maker recommends them.
- Check the finish first. Many bats come with a clear protective covering or a sealed finish on the face. Covered areas do not need oil; oil only bare wood, such as the edges, toe and back, if the maker advises it.
- Use a thin coat. Pour a few drops (about a teaspoon) onto a soft cloth and rub it into the face, edges and toe. Avoid the splice and the stickers.
- Let it soak in. Lay the bat flat, face up, and leave it to dry for about 24 hours before using it.
- Repeat sparingly. A light coat at the start of the season and occasionally during it is usually enough. If the face looks dry and pale, a light coat helps; if it looks dark or feels damp, it already has enough.
Do not over-oil
Too much oil is a common way to ruin a bat. It makes the wood heavy, soft and "dead", and can cause the face to rot. Never stand a bat in oil, and never oil the splice or the handle.

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Protecting the face, edges and toe
The face, edges and toe take the most punishment, and a few inexpensive accessories go a long way.
- Anti-scuff sheet. A clear protective film over the face holds the surface fibres together, reduces surface cracks and keeps moisture out. Replace it when it starts to peel or tear.
- Fiberglass edge tape. Tape along the edges helps stop small edge cracks from spreading.
- Toe guard. The toe is the most absorbent part of the bat. A toe guard reduces moisture uptake and protects it from tapping on hard pitches and creases. Avoid tapping the bat hard on the ground.

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Looking after the handle and grip
A worn grip makes the bat twist in your hands and puts strain on the handle. Replace the rubber grip when it becomes smooth, torn or loose. A grip cone makes fitting a new one much easier, and some players use two grips for a thicker handle. Keep oil and water away from the handle and splice, and check the handle binding for any looseness. Our bat grips guide shows how to replace a grip step by step.
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Storing your bat
Willow reacts to moisture and temperature, so where you keep your bat matters as much as how you use it.
- Store it somewhere cool and dry, at room temperature, ideally in a bat cover.
- Do not leave it in a car trunk in summer or in a cold garage or shed in winter. Extreme heat dries the wood out, and damp or cold can make it swell.
- If the bat gets wet, wipe it dry straight away and let it dry naturally, lying flat. Never dry it on a heater or in the sun.
- Do not leave it in a damp kit bag after a rain-affected game. Take it out and let both the bat and the bag air out.
- At the end of the season, check the bat over, give bare wood a light coat of oil if needed, and store it flat or upright in its cover.

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Which balls to use
Use good-quality leather balls with a willow bat. Cheap, very hard "net balls", plastic or composite balls, and old balls that have gone hard or wet can dent and crack the face. Avoid using a match bat against bowling machines with hard synthetic balls. If you play tennis ball or tape ball cricket, use a bat made for it; see our tennis ball cricket bat guide.
Spotting and dealing with damage
Inspect the bat after every few sessions, especially the toe, the edges and the face just above the toe.
| What you see | What it usually means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Fine surface lines on the face | Normal surface cracking in the top fibres | Usually cosmetic. Keep the scuff sheet on and keep playing. |
| Small edge cracks | Impact on the edge, often from mistimed shots | Lightly sand, apply wood glue if open, then fiberglass edge tape. |
| Crack at the toe | Moisture and tapping on hard ground | Dry the bat, glue and clamp, fit a toe guard. |
| Deep or spreading crack, or a crack near the splice | Structural damage | Stop using the bat and have it professionally repaired. |
| Dark, damp-feeling, heavy face | Too much oil or moisture | Stop oiling, dry naturally, store somewhere dry. |
For repairs in more detail, read how to repair a damaged cricket bat.
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Bat care checklist
| When | What to do |
|---|---|
| Before first use | Oil bare wood if needed and knock in fully. |
| After every session | Wipe it clean and dry, put it in its cover, take it out of a damp bag. |
| Every few sessions | Check the toe, edges, face, grip and scuff sheet. |
| During the season | A light coat of oil on bare wood only if it looks dry. |
| End of season | Repair any damage, oil lightly if needed, store cool and dry. |
Frequently asked questions
How often should I oil my cricket bat?
Only lightly and only when the bare wood looks dry. For most bats that means a thin coat before first use, then occasionally during and at the end of the season. Bats with a protective covering on the face need oil only on bare areas, if at all.
What oil is best for a cricket bat?
Raw linseed oil is the standard choice for willow bats. Avoid boiled linseed oil and general wood oils unless the bat maker recommends them.
Can I use my bat if it gets wet?
Wipe it dry immediately and let it dry naturally, lying flat at room temperature. Avoid playing with a wet bat, because damp willow is softer and more likely to crack, especially at the toe.
Is it normal for a new bat to show small cracks?
Fine surface lines on the face are normal on willow bats and are usually cosmetic. Deep cracks, cracks that keep growing, or cracks near the splice or handle are not normal and should be checked or repaired.
Should I put an anti-scuff sheet on my bat?
Yes, for most willow bats. It protects the face, reduces surface cracking and helps keep moisture out. Fit it after knocking in and replace it when it wears.
How should I store my bat in the off-season?
Clean it, repair any damage, give bare wood a light coat of oil if it looks dry, and store it in a cover somewhere cool and dry. Avoid garages, sheds and car trunks.
Do I need to knock in my bat again?
A bat that has been properly knocked in does not need a full repeat. If you repair a crack or the bat has been unused for a long time, a short session of light knocking and some time in the nets with an old ball helps. See how to knock in a cricket bat.











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